A laid-back provincial capital in northwest Cambodia that feels like a big country town, Battambang is often thought of as a stop-off point for travellers en route to the capital Phnom Penh, tourist mecca Siem Reap, and the temples at Angkor. But Battambang, Cambodia’s little-visited second city, is waking up to its creative potential and turning into the most engaging city in the country.

Despite being the second-largest city in Cambodia, Battambang remains relatively untainted by tourism and mass development, has few crowds, and retains the character of a market town. Still, it was designated a City of Gastronomy by UNESCO in 2023 with good reason. This pretty, sleepy town at the center of a fertile plain 30 kilometres west of Tonlé Sap Lake has a reputation for producing the country’s most delicious food. 

Here’s our guide to what to see, do, and eat in and around Battambang city, a wonderful place to get a glimpse of Cambodia beyond the crowds.

Things to do and see in Battambang 

Of all the destinations in Cambodia a traveller might venture to, the Battambang province, in the far northwest of the country, is the easiest to love. The culinary traditions are rich. The transportation is cheap. The riverside town opens up with broad tree-lined avenues and colonial buildings that hark back to the time of French rule. The skyline is dotted with golden spires of glittering pagodas.

The picturesque town of Battambang offers a quieter side to the country, where you can ride on surreal bamboo trains, sample delicious street food, and do tuk-tuk tours into the lush countryside to see off-the-beaten-track Angkorian temples and visit cottage industries.

Here is a list of things to do in Battambang, pronounced /bad-tam-bong/, one of the most authentic and laid-back cities in Cambodia. 

1.The Colonial Heritage and Psar Nat Market

The modern city came into being in 1907 under French urban planning. A clear urban grid still defines the centre today. Strolling or cycling along Streets 1, 2, and 3, you’ll pass rows of charming shophouses by the Sangker River, French colonial villas, glittering pagodas, and striking modernist buildings from the New Khmer Architecture movement. 

The true centrepiece of Battambang city is Psar Nat, the central market built in 1936 during the French colonial period. Marvel at its bright yellow art deco structure and cruciform hall topped by a dome. And explore its labyrinthine interior, where merchants hawk spices, Cambodian textiles, lacquerware, paintings, and silver jewellery crafted by deft hands. Almost everything sold here is made in Cambodia, not imported from China or Vietnam.

2. Wat Kor Village 

Nestled south of the city centre, the village of Wat Kor is known for the temple that gives it its name. Founded in the early 1900s, this alluring yet little-visited pagoda stands out for its quirky details, especially the ornate naga carvings that coil like river serpents. Its classical spires rise into the sky, surrounded by lush gardens filled with the scent of frangipani.

The village is also known for its traditional Khmer wooden stilt houses, some more than a century old, which have endured thanks to their robust construction and high-quality materials. Among them is the former residence of Nuon Chea^[1], a Cambodian politician and the second-in-command of the Khmer Rouge. Known as “Brother Number 2,” he was the chief ideologue of the Communist Party and the right-hand man to Pol Pot during the Cambodian genocide of the 1970s.

Wat Kor village is a stop on our 3-week Grand Tour, which includes a visit to Angkor Wat, as well as: 

• Battambang; 
• Phnom Penh; 
• Kratie; 
• Sen Monorom; 
• Banlung;
• Stung Treng; 
• Sra Em; 
• Siem Reap; 
• Kep;
• Kampot;
• Bokor; 
• Koh Rong.

Contact us for more details and to plan your own personalized itinerary in Cambodia. 

3. The bamboo train (norry)

Imagine the most stripped-back vehicle conceivable… A flat, homemade bamboo platform balanced on two sets of wheels and powered by a motorbike engine. Now put it on an old, single railway track abandoned in the 1970s during the civil war. The result is the most entertaining travel experience in Battambang. 

At the village of O Dambong, the popular and surrealbamboo train, known in Khmer as norry, is one of the most remarkable public transport efforts on the planet. Born of necessity in war-torn days, these platforms, framed in woven bamboo and set atop axles powered by roaring engines, hurtle through lush rice fields where farmers cultivate the award-winning phka rumduol variety of jasmine rice^[2].

4. Prasat Banan: the hilltop Angkorian temple

There are still many spots that remain off the tourist radar in this area, one of which is Prasat Banan. Perched atop a hill around 25 kilometres south of Battambang, this monumental Angkorian-era temple offers panoramic vistas of verdant rice paddies and distant hills. Ascend the 358 steps to reach the top and enjoy sweeping views over the surrounding Cambodian countryside. 

At the summit, five sandstone towers dating to the 11th century stand in a layout strongly reminiscent of Angkor Wat. A resemblance, we think, that is hard to ignore. 

Standout features include the finely carved lintels above each tower entrance and the basreliefs that adorn the upper sections of the central tower. Many of the most exquisite sculptures are now kept in the Battambang Museum.

5. Wat Ek Phnom and the rice paper villages

Heading north from Battambang, the road passes through a quietly agricultural landscape dotted with fruit orchards and towns where traditional crafts survive. The rice paper villages along this route offer a chance to observe the production of the translucent sheets used in Khmer cooking. Rice paste is spread over bamboo frames, left to dry in the tropical sun, and then peeled away with practiced ease.

Don’t miss the chance to take a bicycle or tuk-tuk ride to Ek Phnom temple, located approximately 10 kilometres north of Battambang. Built in the 11th century under the rule of King Suryavarman I, this ancient temple is famous for its well-carved lintels, pediments, and basreliefs depicting events of Hindu mythology, mostly referring to Krishna.

6. Phnom Sampeu: Khmer Rouge killing caves and the bat exodus at sunset

The limestone hill of Phnom Sampeu rises abruptly from the flat plain along Route 57. It was the site of some of the regime’s most horrific crimes. The area around Battambang was among the last strongholds of the Khmer Rouge. 

Mount Sampeau is the site of the Killing Caves, where around 300 Cambodians were killed after being pushed off various parts of this steep outcrop, sometimes after having their throats slit.

At sunset, however, the hill offers a spectacle of a completely different kind. From the cave openings, millions of wrinkle-lipped free-tailed bats emerge in a continuous dark ribbon that spirals eastward toward Tonlé Sap to feed around sunset. 

7. Phare Ponleu Selpak (the Cambodian circus)

A must-do in Battambang is catching a high-energy show of live music and acrobatics at thePhare Circus. The bright big top tent hosts action-packed daily shows. All performers are students of Phare Ponleu Selpak, a non-profit arts and circus school that teaches visual, applied, and performing arts.

8. Cycling through rice paddies and rural villages

Battambang lies in the midst of one of the largest rice-growing areas in Southeast Asia. Venture out of town and join bike tours around the rural villages to get a glimpse into the various agricultural industries. Rice paper production, dried fruits, rice liquor, and prohok fermented fish paste^[3] are just a few. 

Enjoy weaving along palm-fringed roads in the early morning haze and down red-dirt roads through a maze of bamboo trees, emerald rice paddies, and lush countryside.

Cambodia’s rice bowl and its only vineyard 

The Battambang province is often called Cambodia’s fertile rice bowl, and with good reason. The combination of the Tonlé Sap’s seasonal flooding and the flat, fertile plain has made this one of the largest and most agriculturally productive areas in Southeast Asia for centuries. 

The city’s cuisine is best sampled on a stroll around its vibrant food markets, roadside stalls, and rustic eateries. You’ll find aromatic herbs, tropical produce, and flavourful fresh fruit, including mangoes, coconuts, and the prized Battambang oranges and pomelos. 

This area is known for Khmer cuisine deeply rooted in the country’s agrarian heartlands, shaped by rice paddies and freshwater fisheries. Culinary delights abound: 

• amok fish steamed in banana leaves, 
• charcoal-grilled beef and pork sausages, served with eggplant salsa, banana flower blossoms, and finished with a cilantro dressing;
• lok lak beef stir-fried with oyster sauce; 
• freshly made rice noodles topped with fragrant, herbaceous curries;
• turmeric-tinted pancakes filled with minced pork;
• smoky grilled beef skewers served in French baguettes;
• crunchy deep-fried bananas sprinkled with black and white sesame seeds;
• piping-hot coconut custard puddings cooked over clay braziers.

Thanks to its strong culinary and street-food scene, Battambang was designated a Creative City of Gastronomy^[4] by UNESCO in 2023. It is also home to Cambodia’s only vineyard. Yes, the Prasat Banan Winery, near the temple of the same name, produces red and rosé wine from local grapes.

How to get to Battambang

You can get to Battambang town by train or bus from Phnom Penh, Siem Reap, and the Thai border crossing at Poipet. 

There are some 20 buses and trains a day from the capital Phnom Penh and Siem Reap. The train is the slowest but most scenic and cheapest option. For a faster, more flexible, and comfortable ride, you can opt for shared minivans, private taxis, and car rentals.

For more information about tours to Battambang and available transportation options, contact us directly at info@inasiatravel.com.

Best time to visit Battambang

The best time to visit Battambang is from October to April, corresponding to the dry season. Skies are clear, rain is scarce, and temperatures are balmy, ideal for temple treks and norry rides sans mud’s embrace.

The monsoon season, from May to October, has its own appeal. The landscape turns intensely green, the Tonlé Sap fills and expands spectacularly, and the rice paddies that surround the city reach their lush peak. Pack a rain poncho for poetic downpours.

Travelling in the shoulder months of October or late April can offer the best of both worlds and fewer tourists. Get in touch with us before finalising your travel dates.

What does Battambang mean?

Battambang literally means “the place where the stick was lost” in Khmer, referring to the local legend of Preah Bat Dambang Kranhoung, who, enraged by a rival, hurled his enchanted staff at him. 

The throw went wide, and the staff landed in the plains to the northwest. Where it fell, a stream appeared, the O Dâmbâng, giving its name to the settlement that grew up nearby. A statue of the enraged king stands at the entrance to the modern city.

How many days do you need in Battambang?

For a meaningful visit, including exploring the colonial centre, riding the gondola-like bamboo train, making a day trip to Phnom Sampeu and Prasat Banan, and catching a Phare Circus performance in the evening, two nights in Battambang are the bare minimum. 

Three nights allow a more relaxed pace, time for cycling into the lush countryside, heading to the bat caves at sunset, and simply soaking in the city’s relaxed atmosphere and unhurried rhythms. For travellers on tighter schedules but eager to see as much as possible, Battambang can work as a day trip from Siem Reap before heading to Phnom Penh. 

Offering a blend of expertise, local connections, and good value, In Asia Travel helps you craft a personalized itinerary in Cambodia.

Notes

1 Nuon Chea, Wikipedia (en), https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nuon_Chea ↵

2 Cooking and eating qualities of phka rumduol, a leading variety of Cambodian rice, ResearchGate (en), https://www.researchgate.net/publication/343314925_Cooking_and_Eating_Qualities_of_Phka_Rumduol_A_Leading_Variety_of_Cambodian_Rice ↵

3 Tradition and fermentation science of prohok, an ethnic fermented fish product of Cambodia, Springer Nature (en), https://link.springer.com/article/10.1186/s42779-019-0027-1 ↵

4 Battambang’s designation as a UNESCO Creative City, Unesco.org (en), https://www.unesco.org/en/creative-cities/battambang↵